A Disassemble and Fixing Guide for Leica 18767 Visoflex (Typ 020)
The first medium writing in english!
In my opinion, if one thing is already broken, it does not matter if it’s broken apart or not.
如果東西是壞掉的，那壞掉的「一個」和壞掉的「一坨」應該沒有差吧?
So, I’m gonna try to firstly, disassemble and make clear what kind of problem it is and secondly, try to fix it.
那就來試著先拆解、了解問題來源後修修看吧～
The Issue I have with my Leica 18767 Visoflex (Typ 020)
1. The broken eyepiece rubber 接目橡膠脆化
Well, according to previous posts from the Leica forum, it’s a relatively common issue and it seems that Leica is not providing any repair service despite it being under warranty. Or at least, it’s what happened in Taiwan. The customer service told me it cannot be fixed or replaced and the only way to get rid of it is to buy a new one.
國外論壇上也常提到這個問題，顯見是個通病。但當初問過徠卡台灣，即便在保固內也沒有修復的辦法，只能「再買一個新的」，偉哉徠卡。
But luckily, due to this issue, I was able to buy this second hand Visoflex EVF viewfinder at a much cheaper price!
不過也幸運的是，我是上一手用戶就遇上這個問題，所以我用算是買瑕疵品的價格二手購入的，省了一些xd
Fixing this issue is much easier because it only affects its appearance. I try fixing it with a layer of “ Iron Man Camera Protection Tape” or so-called “Protective Tape Wrap” for general protection and an outer layer of the black rubber band. It looks pretty normal from a distance.
反正外觀件的維修都不難，爽度問題而已。我當時是簡單的使用一層鐵人膠帶保護後，外面套一段買小電器送的黑色粗橡皮筋，外觀有八成像！
2. The broken diopter-adjustment (EVF focus adjustment)
Until today, i still cannot figure out how i may cause damage to this part. Just one day after i taking it out, i found the visoflex becoming clicking and out of focus. The only way i can see the visoflex clearly is to put it downward and making the moving glass part in the front-end position. But the temporary solvement it’s not practical at all. I’ll mentioned how I solve the problem later.
時至今日我還是不知道我怎麼搞壞的…就是某天拿出來用的時候發現有個搖晃聲、且EVF相當模糊，必須將其前倒、使裡頭的鏡組移動到最前端才能夠看清楚。但一旦要仰拍就GG惹。
I try to illustrate the “position” for a clear vision. I wear glasses and have no farsighted issues so I normally need no adjustment of the diopter-adjustment (which equals zero).
我通常都戴眼鏡拍照、也還沒有老花問題，所以EVF都不需要額外的屈光度調整，Visoflex的”歸零”應該是在鏡組再最底時。
Other Issue reported
One Internet user, Charadis, reported the issue regarding a proximity sensor and fixed it with the realignment of connections. His brief demonstration on how to dissemble the Visoflex and put it back gives me some confidence in repairing it.
網上有其他網友反應過感應器接觸不良的問題，透過重接排線搞定。就是這篇文讓我有點信心拆開來修修看（看起來裝的回去～）
Let’s start disassembly
The diopter-adjustment is in the inner core of the visoflex, so we will need to go much deeper than Charadis.
屈光度調整的組件在最核心處，所以我們會需要比網友再拆的更深一些。
Firstly, to fix the EVF part, the hotshoe needs no disassembly. I notice this after I disassembled it. The spring inside is quite annoying and I’m not sure whether I’ve put it back correctly (it just works fine). It’s better not to touch this part if not necessary.
基本上若是要維修EVF端的組件的話，熱靴座那邊是不需要拆開的，特別是裡頭有一個小彈簧，我至今不知道有沒有放對位置回去（但看起來作動都正常）。所以若沒有必要不用碰這邊
But I’ve already documented how to disassemble the hotshoe part so I’ll share it by the end of this article.
但反正拆都拆了也都拍照了，文末會稍微分享一下這邊怎麼拆。
1. Remove the rubber eye piece.
but mine is already broken so its not a big issue for me.
先移除橡膠護圈才能看到螺絲，但我的早就已經爛光了，所以我也不知道怎麼完好的拆這個部分…
2. Spliting the upper and lower case.
After rubber eyepiece removal, you will see two screw looking from the bottom. Remove them.
由下往上看可以看到兩個螺絲，轉開後，
Gently split between the upper and lower half outer shell. There are 3 latches/hoods, 2 on the bilateral side and one on the front.
優雅地把上/下外殼掰開，總共有三大卡榫，兩個在側邊、一個在前端
3. Detach the cables.
Minimally, 2 cables need to be detached from the motherboard. One larger one is the main cable connecting to the hotshoe interface and the other i believe is to the proximity sensor.
總共需要解開兩個排線，一條較大的通往熱靴介面，而另一個較小的我相信是距離感測器。
4. Remove the upper case.
Find 1 screw inside the upper case and release it. You can easily obtain the core of the viewfinder.
找到上部外殼內的一顆螺絲，轉開後就能將外殼與中間的Viewfinder分離。
5. Remove the diopter-adjustment wheel and main board.
There are totally 2(upper)+2(lateral)+3(main board)=8 screws need to be removed to get inside the LCD screen module.
總共需要轉開8個螺絲（2個頂部、2個側邊、3個主板上）才能拿開屈光度調整盤、拿到最裡面的EVF模組。
You only need to remove the 2 screw in the upper side to get the inner LCD module. The other is for retaining the proximal sensor.
頂側只需移除標示的兩個螺絲。另一個是固定距離感測器模組用的。
6. remove the inner wheel and get the LCD module.
Simply remove the screw of the inner wheel.
再轉開內輪盤螺絲後，就能拿出最內側的螢幕模組。
You can now get the LCD module
7. Detach the front glass
Finally, no screw removal in the following steps. Make sure you make proper management of all your screws.
終於，接下來的步驟中都不需要轉開螺絲了，記得做好螺絲管理。
Simply detach the hood on bilateral side of the front glass.
輕輕鬆鬆撥開前鏡片的卡榫
You can now see the diopter glass, 2 sliding rods, and the LCD screen.
終於能看到出問題的屈光度調整鏡片、兩條滑動用的鐵棒，與最裡頭的螢幕。
Let’s figure out the what goes wrong with the diopter adjustment first.
先來研究出了什麼問題吧！
The mechanism of diopter-adjustment
屈光度調整的機制
It’s quite simple and…brutial. A set of lens is moving forward/backward to compensate the far-sight.
機制其實很簡單也很暴力，利用一塊可以前後移動的鏡組來代償遠視/老花問題。
I noticed a fractured rod when I detach the LCD module. The original attachment to the lens module is apparent.
在拆解過程中有注意到一塊小塑膠棒，仔細檢查原本的鏡組，可以看到斷掉的痕跡。
I think it originally work like this. The rod attaching to the lens help move the module forward/backward by extending out of this tiny slot and was controlled by the wheel.
我猜原本的運作機制是那根連到鏡片模組上的小塑膠棒會從上圖左的槽中伸出來、由外頭轉盤（ 上圖右）旋轉調整其前後位置。
But it’s fractured and cement it back it’s not pretty reliable considering its mechanism
但依照其斷裂程度與調控機制，我不認為試著把這根棒子黏會去是個好選擇。
As I mentioned before, I wear glasses and have no farsighted issues so I normally need no adjustment of the diopter-adjustment (which equals zero). So, I try to fix the lens to the rearest position.
如同前述，我其實用不大到屈光度調節的功能，基本上只要固定在0的位置即可。所以我想試試看把鏡組固定在最前端。
The Fixing of diopter-adjustment
I measured the size needed to create a “packing” to fix the lens in the front-most position, realizing it using 123D Design.
在稍微量測需要墊的大小與厚度後，我用123D Design畫了個簡單的夾層墊片。
Later, i printed it out by 3D printing(DLP method). (Special thanks to INMOS 3D printing)
懶得自己印（畢竟少量印製，要確認樹酯參數、聞臭味、洗廢料，很是麻煩），直接找廠商3D列印輸出，感謝INMOS 3D列印的幫忙。
After first try-in, the width and length is perfect but a bit too thick.
放進去試試看，高度、寬度都剛剛好，微獨厚度厚了些（實際上是不好估計，所以有刻意抓大留修正空間）
Modification was done using P320 then P1000 sandpaper. Mind the dust produced during reduction and polishing. I do the disassembly and the adjustment in different location and make proper cleaning before i putting it back.
使用320號砂紙粗磨、1000號砂紙細磨做調整。調整時注意不要讓大量粉陳進到模組內，我是在兩個不同房間處理後，好好清潔粉塵後才放回。
Now it works perfectly fine! No thickenss increased after i putting back the front glass. The final thickness of the packing as i measured is around 2.0~2.5mm(sorry that it's not precise for its thickness is determined by manual polishing)
放回去剛剛好、前鏡組裝的回去、搖起來穩穩的。最終的墊片厚度約莫2.0~2.5mm之間（畢竟純手工打磨，不一定能磨得很正）
You can find the final packing .stl file here.
I’ve set the thickness to 2.5mm and hope it can work without any adjustment.
最終版的厚度我訂在2.5mm，希望是不用調整就能直上的厚度。
Dimension(outer): 18.0 * 14.5 * 2.5 mm
外尺寸是：18.0 x 14.5 x 2.5mm
Now you can put everything back layer by layer. Mind the position marking of the diopter-adjustment wheel.
剩下就是一層一層的鎖回去就好，特別注意放回屈光尺調節輪盤的對位即可。
There are two position bar in the inner side of diopter-adjustment wheel.
屈光尺調節輪盤的內面有兩個對位小凸點。
I didn’t use this Visoflex finder quite often. However, it’s always interesting and can give a sense of accomplishment when able to fix the problem on one’s own. Maybe I’ll get a Leica M10 in the future?
其實我並沒有很常用這個EVF，純粹是爽度問題。但能自己拆解、設計、畫圖、輸出調整來修理好一個小東西，那個成就感是無價的。
哪天不小心買了Leica M10就有EVF可以沿用了呢!
Supplement:
How to disassemble the hotshoe part of Visoflex.
1.
remove the 4 screw. 解開熱靴上的四個螺絲
2.
After the 4 screw removal, gently push the case downward as I indicated. There are no tapes nor latch/hood so it’s quite simple.
轉開螺絲後，把上蓋如圖示輕輕下推，這裡沒有膠帶或卡扣，慢慢推開就好。
3.
Release the 2 screw. Be careful a spring is located on the opposite side of the framework. Keep an eye on it and do not miss it.
解開鐵框上的兩個螺絲，要特別注意對側有一個彈簧，不要遺失了。
It seems the spring is coming out from this stick but i’m not 100% sure.
看起來彈簧是繞在這跟小鐵棒上，但我沒有100%把握。
4.
There are not much device but cables in this part of Visoflex. I believe it’s no need generally to disassemble this part. All major connections are inside the EVF part.
這一段除了排線外沒有什麼重要結構、也沒有接點，所以通常應該是不需要動到這一段。
